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From Farm to Fork

Posted on: 19 Jul 2011 | Category: Food, from Farm to Fork |

 

Last week at a ” Lunch with Andrachelle” in the showroom, the conversation turned, quite appropriately to food, we were all munching away, so no surprises there.  But, the interesting thing was, everyone around the table had a comment, story or some snippet of information about food which was quite fascinating.

One guest told use all about the 10% Campaign run by North Carolina.  l would like to share this with you.  Please read on:

Can you  believe that we spend about $35 billion a year on food. If we spent 10 percent – $1.05 per day locally – approximately $3.5 billion would be available in the local economy.

A vibrant local food economy will support farms, food and manufacturing businesses and create jobs.

Infusing fresh and flavorful fruits and vegetables into diets can significantly reduce diet-related diseases and long-term health care expenses for everyone.

Here’s How it Works

Join the campaign! Register and pledge to spend 10 percent of your food budget on foods produced/grown locally.

Explore this site:

http://www.ncsu.edu/project/nc10percent/index.php

to learn where you can buy/grow local foods. They will track and post 10% Campaign partnerships, initiatives, news events and happenings.

Connect with the thousands of North Carolinians and organizations/initiatives already in the field and those just beginning to bloom.

Track your progress and theirs. Once you register, they will send you a weekly email asking a few important questions about your progress.

Help Them Grow

The 10% Campaign is committed to success through education, promotion and collaboration. We are working with organizations, businesses, governments and just about any other group you can think of to encourage participation, “farm to” buying programs and growing your own. Suggestions for partnership are welcome!

Encourage your friends, family, co-workers and neighbors to join the 10% Campaign and build North Carolina’s local food economy while enjoying the greatness of North Carolina food.

The 10% Core Team

The Center for Environmental Farming Systems (CEFS) is leading the 10% Campaign. Through its 2009 Farm to Fork initiative and resulting action guide, CEFS has energized and connected thousands of North Carolinians determined to build our local food economy. Grant funding for the 10% Campaign is provided by the Golden LEAF Foundation. CEFS is working with North Carolina Cooperative Extension and Charlotte-based Compass Group, the world’s largest  food service  company, to develop the early and long-term components of the campaign.

North Carolina Cooperative Extension agents are supporting the 10% Campaign by acting as local foods coordinators in all 100 counties. Working with other community leaders, farmers, businesses, local governments, parents, teachers and students, and others, these on-the-ground experts are:

Encouraging farmers and businesses to increase their capacities; and helping to grow new farmers;

Promoting local foods, food producers and related businesses within their communities;

Supporting “backyard farmers” and community gardens;

Connecting farms to schools, businesses, faith-based organizations, health organizations and many more.

Compass Group will lead the way for institutional consumers by working with CEFS to develop a model “farm-to-institution” buying program and by sourcing 10 percent of the produce it serves in its North Carolina foodservice accounts from local farmers.

Farmers, restaurants, businesses and institutions are increasingly responding to consumer demand for local foods. Statewide, consumers support more than 200 farmers’ markets. The number of farm-direct to-consumer partnerships—known formally as Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) programs—are also on the rise, as are local buying clubs, home delivery businesses, food co-ops and grocery stores offering local foods, promoting local farmers and engaging in the community.

North Carolina Cooperative Extension is supporting the 10% Campaign by designating a local foods coordinator in all 100 counties. These in-the-field experts are a great resource and can help you find local foods, farmers and community events.

Help them grow! Let your community/businesses leaders know that buying local foods is important to you, your friends, family and colleagues. Tell them about the 10% Campaign and encourage them to sign on today.

EXPLORE these ON-LINE DIRECTORIES to help you find North Carolina foods. If you have a proposed listing, please contact

National (searchable by state)

Eat Well Guide: Lists local, sustainable and organic farms, CSAs, restaurants and retail markets in the U.S.A. and Canada.

Food Routes: Lists farms, CSAs, farmers’ market and other local food sources.

Green People: Lists farms, CSAs, farmers’ markets and other local food sources, including dairy.

Local Harvest: Lists farmers’ markets, farms, CSAs, event listings, forum discussions, how-to guides and more.

Eat Wild: Lists pasture-based, grass-fed beef, lamb, poultry, egg and dairy products.

Statewide

Carolina Farm Stewardship Association: Farmers, farmers’ markets, restaurants, grocers, manufacturers and more. Also includes an iPhone/iPod farm locator application.

NC Choices, a Center for Environmental Farming Initiative; provides a meat product buying guide and profiles of more than 30 farmers raising pasture-based beef and pork in North Carolina.

North Carolina Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services’ (NCDA&CS) has three statewide directories and marketing programs to support local food producers:

Look for the Got to Be NC logo when shopping at grocery stores owned by Harris Teeter, Lowe’s Foods, Kroger and Piggly Wiggly. If you don’t see it, ask for it.

Farm Fresh: Lists pick-your-own farms, roadside farm markets, CSAs, and farmers markets throughout the state

NC Fresh Link: Lists major North Carolina growers, packers, and shippers to help larger venues find top quality fruits, vegetables, herbs, greenhouse, and organic produce.

Regional

Appalachian Sustainable Agriculture Program (ASAP): Lists tailgate markets, restaurants and bakeries, grocers, caterers, bed and breakfasts, and artisan food products in Western North Carolina.

Buy Haywood: Offers Haywood county listings of restaurants, producers & growers, grocers, and more.

Look for ASAP’s Appalachian Grown™ label — a model branding program that certifies food and agricultural products grown or raised on farms in Alleghany, Ashe, Avery, Buncombe, Burke, Caldwell, Cherokee, Clay, Graham, Haywood, Henderson, Jackson, McDowell, Macon, Madison, Mitchell, Polk, Rutherford, Swain, Transylvania, Watauga, Wilkes and Yancey counties and the Southern Appalachian mountains.

Brunswick Catch: Profiles and promotes Brunswick County fishermen and businesses.

Carteret Catch: Profiles and promotes Carteret County fishermen and businesses.

Farm to Table Restaurant Guide: Asheville, NC highlights farm fresh food served at local restaurants.

Farmers’ Fresh Market : An on-line market linking growers, chefs and individuals serving Rutherford, Polk, Cleveland, McDowell, Gaston, Buncombe and Mecklenburg counties.

Southeastern North Carolina Food Systems Program Feast on the Southeast: Local food guide serving Bladen, Brunswick, Columbus, Duplin, New Hanover, Onslow, Pender and Robeson counties.

Foothills Fresh: Local food guide serving the foothill counties of Western North Carolina: Alexander, Burke, Catawba, Cleveland, Gaston and Lincoln counties.

Growing Small Farms: Locate farms, CSAs, retail outlets and restaurants in Chatham County and beyond.

NCDA & CS Fresh from North Carolina Seafood Directory.

NC Sea Grant: Provides a directory of NC fisheries, seasonality charts.

Ocracoke Seafood : The Working Waterman’s Association established this to promote the island’s fisheries. They list local restaurants serving fresh, local seafood.

Sandhills Farm to Table Cooperative, “Neighbors Feeding Neighbors”: An online co-op supporting 970 local food advocates in Moore County and beyond.

Tar Heel Guide to Restaurants and Caterers Using Local Food: Includes resources for Orange, Chatham, Durham, Alamance and Wake counties.

CSAs, Multi-farm CSAs

Find CSAs also listed in some of the National, State, and Regional databases above

Core Sound Seafood/: Community supported fishery providing year around fresh seafood. Their website features recipes, availability chart, and a members forum.

Charlotte Local Foods: Online directory of CSAs in the Charlotte area.

Farm to Fork Meat: Meat and seafood CSA serving Wake County.

Growing Small Farms: Lists CSAs in many counties across the state.

High Country CSA: Multi-farm CSA offering produce in Western NC

Know Your Farms: CSA serving the Charlotte/Mecklenburg county region

Walking Fish – a Community Supported Fisheries program Consumers pre-pay for a ‘share’ of fresh, locally harvested seafood (i.e., a set amount of seafood generally picked up by the consumer on a weekly or bi-weekly basis).

Food Buying Clubs & Delivery Services

Visit NCfoodnet.com, a Center for Environmental Farming Systems Initiative, for listings and to add a business.

Wholesale Businesses with Local Focus

Eastern Carolina Organics: Farmer-owned and organic

Farmers’ Fresh Market: An on-line market linking growers, chefs and individuals serving Rutherford, Polk, Cleveland, McDowell, Gaston, Buncombe and Mecklenburg counties.

Pilot Mountain Pride: Connects mid-sized farms in the greater Winston-Salem market (Forsyth, Stokes and Surry counties) to area restaurants, grocers and institutions interested in sourcing locally grown produce.

Co-ops & Grocers

Many grocers throughout the state have demonstrated a commitment to selling local foods, supporting local farmers, local food initiatives and communities.

Look for the Got to Be NC when shopping at grocery stores owned by Harris Teeter, Lowe’s Foods, Kroger and Piggly Wiggly. If you don’t see it, ask for it.

Whole Foods Market stores throughout North Carolina are featuring locally grown and produced foods. As one of our founding partners, Whole Foods Market is committed to the 10% Campaign.

Community and farmer owned Co-ops are growing in North Carolina. These offer a great way to invest in your local food economy. Find a co-op in your area here: North Carolina co-ops

In western North Carolina, look for the Appalachian Grown label, a symbol displayed with farm products grown or raised in Western North Carolina and the southern Appalachian mountains. Visit Appalachian Sustainable Agriculture Program (ASAP) for a listing certified grocers and more.

As North Carolina’s food system grows, we’ll continue to provide sources for local food. Please check back often.

Make the Choice. Make a Difference. Make it Local.


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House of Andrachelle

Posted on: 24 Jan 2011 | Category: Fabrics |

House of Andrachelle.

What’s happening to the price of cotton?

The price of cotton has risen 100% in the past year. This is mainly due to the soaring demand in China, bad crop yields in both China and india and floods in Pakistan. Speculators have also pushed up the price.

If we add to this the fact that India has a limited amount of cotton for export and take into account that many spinning mills in Europe have closed due to shortages and price increases, we can appreciate the situation we find ourselves in.

There are no indications that prices will revert back to 2009 levels any time soon, so we can expect apparel and household linens to increase in price.

Fabrics produced using Polyester/ Cotton blends have also incurred significant increases. although not yet by as much as the pure cotton blends.

The House of Andrachelle has always used the highest grade of lining and interlining for our hand sewn draperies and  soft furnishings and we plan to continue to do so.toile gothic crown 007 300x225 House of Andrachelle

Now, more than ever it would seem prudent to purchase high quality merchandise which will perform, look good and give many years of service.  Fabrics which are loaded with fabric finishers or starches, which deteriorate  after a short period of time are of no value to anyone, so spend those dollars wisely.

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Synthetic fibers are the most popular fibers in the world. Why?

Posted on: 17 Feb 2010 | Category: Fabric |

Synthetic fibers are the most popular fibers in the world with 65% of world production of fibers being synthetic and  35%  natural fibers. (1)  Fully  70% of that synthetic fiber production is polyester. There are many different types of polyester, but the type most often produced for use in textiles is polyethylene terephthalate, abbreviated PET.   Used in a fabric, it’s most often referred to as “polyester” or “poly”.  It is very cheap to produce, and that’s a primary driver for its use in the textile industry.

The majority of the world’s PET production – about 60% – is used to make fibers for textiles; and about  30% is used to make bottles.   Annual PET production requires 104 million barrels of oil  – that’s 70 million barrels just to produce the virgin polyester used in fabrics.(2)  That means most polyester – 70 million barrels worth -  is manufactured specifically to be made into fibers, NOT bottles, as many people think.  Of the 30% of PET which is used to make bottles, only a tiny fraction is recycled into fibers.  But the idea of using recycled bottles – “diverting waste from landfills” – and turning it into fibers has caught the public’s imagination.  There are many reasons why using recycled polyester (often called rPET) is not a good choice given our climate crisis, but today’s post is concentrating on only one aspect of polyester: the fact that antimony is used as a catalyst to create PET.  We will explore what that means.

Antimony is present in 80 – 85% of all virgin PET.  Antimony is a carcinogen, and toxic to the heart, lungs, liver and skin.  Long term inhalation causes chronic bronchitis and emphysema.  The industry will say that  although antimony is used as a catalyst in the production process, it  is “locked” into the finished polymer, and not a concern to human health.  And that’s correct:   antimony used in the production of  PET fibers becomes chemically bound to the PET polymer  so your PET fabric does contain antimony but it isn’t available to your living system. (2)

But wait!  says Leigh Anne Van Dusen, principle at O Ecotextiles, Antimony is leached from the fibers during the high temperature dyeing process.  The antimony that leaches from the fibers  is expelled with the wastewater into our rivers (unless the fabric is woven at a mill which treats its wastewater).  In fact, as much as 175ppm of antimony can be leached from the fiber during the dyeing process. This seemingly insignificant amount translates into a burden on water treatment facilities when multiplied by 19 million lbs each year -  and it’s still a hazardous waste when precipitated out during treatment. Countries that can afford technologies that precipitate the metals out of the solution are left with a hazardous sludge that must then be disposed of in a properly managed landfill or incinerator operations. Countries who cannot or who are unwilling to employ these end-of-pipe treatments release antimony along with a host of other dangerous substances to open waters.

But what about the antimony that remains in the PET fabric?  We do know that antimony leaches from PET bottles into the water or soda inside the bottles.  The US Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry says that the antimony in fabric is very tightly bound and does not expose people to antimony, (3) as I mentioned earlier.    So if you want to take the government’s word for it,  antimony in  PET  is not a problem for human health  -  at least directly in terms of exposure from fabrics which contain antimony.  (Toxics crusader William McDonough has been on antimony’s case for years, however, and takes a much less sanguine view of antimony. (4) )

Antimony is just not a nice thing to be eating or drinking, and wearing it probably won’t hurt you, but the problem comes up during the production process  – is it released into our environment?  Recycling PET is a high temperature process, which creates wastewater tainted with antimony trioxide – and  the dyeing process for recycled PET is problematic as I mentioned in an earlier post.   Another problem occurs when the PET (recycled or virgin) is finally incinerated at the landfill – because then the antimony is released as a gas (antimony trioxide).  Antimony trioxide  has been classified as a carcinogen in the state of California since 1990, by various agencies in the U.S. (such as OSHA, ACGIH and IARC)  and in the European Union.  And the sludge produced during PET production (40 million pounds in the U.S. alone) when incinerated creates 800,000 lbs of fly ash which contains antimony, arsenic and other metals used during production.(5)

Designers are in love with polyesters because they’re so durable – and cheap (don’t forget cheap!).  So they’re used a lot for public spaces.  Abrasion results are a function not only of the fiber but also the construction of the fabric, and cotton and hemp can be designed to be very durable, but they will never achieve the same abrasion results that some polyesters have achieved – like 1,000,000 rubs.  In the residential market, I would think most people wouldn’t want a fabric to last that long – I’ve noticed sofas which people leave on the streets with “free” signs on them, and never once did I notice that the sofa was suffering from fabric degredation!  The “free” sofa just had to go because it was out of style, or stained, or something – I mean, have you even replaced a piece of furniture because the fabric had actually worn out?  Hemp linens have been known to last for generations.

Synthetic fibers can do many things that make our lives easier, and in many ways they’re the true miracle fibers.  I think there will always be a place for (organic) natural fibers, which are comfortable and soothing next to human skin.  And they certainly have that cachet: doesn’t  silk damask sound better than Ultrasuede? The versatile synthetics have a place in our textile set – but I think the current crop of synthetics must be changed so the toxic inputs are removed and the nonsustainable feedstock (oil) is replaced.  I have great hope for the biobased polymer research going on, because the next generation of miracle fibers just might come from sustainable sources.

(1) “New Approach of Synthetic Fibers Industry”, Textile Exchange,  http://www.teonline.com/articles/2009/01/new-approach-of-synthetic-fibe.html

(2) Polyester, Absolute Astronomy.com: http://www.absoluteastronomy.com/topics/Polyester and Pacific Institute, Energy Implications of Bottled Water, Gleick and Cooley, Feb 2009,http://www.pacinst.org/reports/bottled_water/index.htm)

(3)  Shotyk, William, et al, “Contamination of Canadian and European Bottled waters with antimony from PET containers”, Journal of Environmental Monitoring, 2006.  http://www.rsc.org/delivery/_ArticleLinking/DisplayHTMLArticleforfree.cfm?JournalCode=EM&Year=2006&ManuscriptID=b517844b&Iss=2

(4)   http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/toxprofiles/phs23.html

(5)  http://www.victor-innovatex.com/doc/sustainability.pdf

(3) http://www.greenatworkmag.com/gwsubaccess/02mayjun/eco.html

(4)   http://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/toxprofiles/phs23.html

(5)  http://www.victor-innovatex.com/doc/sustainability.pdf

Article written by Leigh Anne Van Dusen.    February 2010

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Antiques are hand crafted, recycled heirlooms

Posted on: 20 Oct 2009 | Category: antiques |

Antiques are hand crafted, recycled heirlooms. If you are thinking about adding a new piece of furniture to your home, why not consider purchasing one. Imagine owning some thing that belonged to a special family member or a world-renowned personality.
I had the good fortune to see Agatha Christie’s writing desk in the showroom of my friend Barry Cotton. It brought back memories of holidays in Devon, where Agatha spent her summers and London, were I was born.
Agatha’s desk, which is for sale through Barry Cotton Antiques, http://www.barrycottonantiques.com could tell quite a story.

img 0551 300x225 Antiques are hand crafted, recycled heirlooms
Agatha Christie has become synonymous throughout the world with England. Her quintessential “English” characters offer a charming view of a bygone era when people sat down to tea in the afternoon, tended roses in their gardens and where village life provided all the scandal one could ever want to hear!
The richness of the settings in Christie’s novels add to the great enjoyment when reading her novels and she drew on real places when writing her stories. Many are set in Devon where she grew up; Burgh Island, just off the coast is said to be the setting for And Then There Were None and Evil Under the Sun. Her beloved Greenway was to provide the basis for Dead Man’s Folly, Ordeal by Innocence and Five Little Pigs.img 0552 300x225 Antiques are hand crafted, recycled heirlooms

Agatha Christie loved nothing better than escaping with her family to Greenway, their Devon holiday home. An appeal was launched to raise £5.4 million (around $11 million) to help pay for major restoration work to the house. Now that it is open to the public visitors have the opportunity to view the many personal collections and mementoes of this best-loved mystery writer and her family.
Agatha Christie’s family gave Greenway to the English National Trust in 2000. However, as the retirement home of her daughter and son-in-law, Rosalind and Anthony Hicks, the house remained closed to the public. Visitors have for several years been able to enjoy the beautiful woodland garden, with its romantic pathways that lead down to the Dart estuary. Following the recent deaths of Rosalind and Anthony, the house passed to the Trust, along with the generous gift from Agatha Christie’s grandson, Mathew Prichard, of the majority of the contents.

The major restoration project to the house and construction of new visitor facilities are complete and the National Trust now presents Greenway, as it was when Agatha Christie described it as “the loveliest place in the world.”
A visit to Greenway will take visitors, all of whom will be encouraged to arrive by green transport, on a 1950s holiday, painting an intimate portrait of Agatha Christie not only as a writer, but as a mother, wife and hostess. Overlaying her own collections are those of Rosalind and Anthony, who made Greenway their permanent home from the early 1970s.
The vision for Greenway is clear: there will be no gimmicks, no ‘Miss Marple Museum’ or room stewards dressed as Poirot – this was a much-loved family home. In addition to the rooms open to daily visitors, part of the house will be available as a holiday apartment, continuing Greenway’s legacy as a holiday retreat. It will feel as if Agatha Christie and her family have never left. This is a true measure of a home.

img 0553 300x225 Antiques are hand crafted, recycled heirlooms

Imagine this becoming one of your family heirlooms

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Dyeing cloth is one of our oldest industries; people used natural products found around them to change the color of the fibers used to make their cloth – things like leaves, berries, or roots. The first synthetic dye was created in 1856.

Posted on: 03 Sep 2009 | Category: Uncategorized |

Leigh Anne, at O Ecotextiles  thought she would take a look at the dyeing process because so many people ask if O Ecotextiles  use “natural” dyes.  The answer is no, they don’t (although they’re not entirely objecting to natural dyes), and I hope the next two blogs will explain their position!  Let’s first take a look at what makes the dyes (and how they are applied) an area of concern.

Dyeing cloth is one of our oldest industries;  people used natural products found around them to change the color of the fibers used to make their cloth  – things like leaves, berries, or roots.   The first synthetic dye was created in 1856.  Today the use of natural dyes on a commercial scale has almost disappeared (except for a resurgence in the craft market) in favor of the newer synthetic dyes.  The production of synthetic chemical dyestuffs has become big business, but unfortunately the production and use of these synthetic dyes is one of the world’s most polluting industries.  Conventional synthetic dyes present health risks to those working with them and to those who wear them, as well as damaging the environment in a number of ways.  Why?

Dyes are compounds that can be dissolved in solvents, usually water.  The process of dyeing cloth uses a great quantity of water – according to the United States EPA, it takes an average of 5 – 35 gallons of water for every pound of finished fabric.  That translates into 125 – 875 gallons of water to dye 25 yards of fabric – enough to cover one sofa![1]

The dyes in solution are absorbed by the fibers.  The process of transferring the dye from the water to the fiber is called exhaustion or “fixation rate”, with 100% exhaustion meaning there is no dye left in the dyebath solution.   Most conventional dyes have an exhaustion rate of 80%, meaning the dyestuff which is not affixed to the fiber is flushed into our rivers with the spent process water.  Each year the global textile industry discharges 40,000 – 50,000 tons of dye into our rivers, and more than 200,000 tons of salt.[2]

One of the most pressing issues today is the lack of fresh drinking water, and as one of the most polluting industries, textiles – and especially the dyeing of textiles – is responsible for many instances of pollution making fresh water undrinkable.  In the worst cases, communities have to use polluted water to drink, wash clothes, bathe and irrigate crops and the toxins they’re exposed to can have catastrophic effects.  Even in those instances where water treatment is in place, toxic sludge is a byproduct of the process.  Often  sludge is sent to the landfill, but the toxicity of the sludge remains – containing, among others,  heavy metals, gypsum, malachite green (identified by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration as a priority chemical for carcinogenicity testing).

The 40,000 to 50,000 tons of  synthetic dyestuffs expelled into our rivers are complex chemical formulations containing some things that are very toxic to us,  such as heavy metals (like lead, mercury, chromium, zinc, cobalt and copper), benzene and formaldehyde.  Many certifications, such as the new Global Organic Textile Standard and Oeko-Tex, restricts the kinds of chemicals allowed in certified products.  For example, GOTS restricts amine releasing AZO dyes and disperse dyes (must be <30 mg/kg); chromium, cobalt, copper, nickel, mercury, lead, antimony and arsenic are all restricted (rather than prohibited as many people believe).  So the dye formulation means a lot when you’re evaluating the eco credentials of a fabric – but almost never will you be able to find out what dye was used in any  particular fabric.                                                                                                              Copyright: Jucheng Hu

In addition to the formulation, there are requirements that dyestuffs must meet regarding oral toxicity, aquatic toxicity, biodegradability, eliminability and bi-accumulation in fatty tissues. The GOTS details are on their website: www.global-standard.org. Some dyestuff producers advertise that they have a dye group that meets these standards, such as Huntsman and Clariant.  So the formulation of dyes used makes a big difference – look for dyestuffs that have been certified by a third party, such as GOTS.

Remember that if the average exhaustion rate is 80% for most dyes (i.e., that 20% of the dyestuff is expelled with the wastewater) then that means that 80% of the dyestuff remains in the fabric!  In other words, those toxic chemicals remain in the fabrics you bring into your homes.  What do I mean by “toxic” – if you can stand it, I’ll give a short synopsis of the effects some of these chemicals found in many dyestuffs have on us:

  • Mercury:  Easily absorbed thru the skin or inhalation of dust which contains residues; effects the immune system, alters genetic and enzyme systems, damages the nervous system.  Particularly damaging to developing embryos, which are 5 to 10 times more sensitive than adults.
  • Lead: Easily absorbed thru the skin or inhalation of dust which contains residues. Impacts nervous system.   Even low levels of lead can reduce IQ, stunt growth and cause behavior problems.
  • Chromium:  Necessary for insulin activity and an essential trace metal; at toxic levels it causes squamous cell carcinoma of the lung.
  • Copper:  Fatigue, insomnia, osteoporosis, heart disease, cancer, migraine headaches, seizures. Mental disorders include depression, anxiety, mood swings, phobias, panic attacks and attention deficit disorders.
  • Cadmium:  Extremely toxic to humans because of its inhibition of various enzyme systems; primary target organ is the kidney; but also causes lung cancer ; also causes testicular damage and male sterility. Plants readily absorb cadmium from the soil so it easily enters food chain. Chronic exposure is associated with renal disease.
  • Sodium chloride (salt): not toxic in small doses (thankfully for me and my salt addiction), but the industry uses this in such high volumes it becomes an environmental hazard; an organochlorine (the class of organochlorines are very stable (i.e. does not break down into other compounds) and they bioaccumulate; 177 different organochlorines have been found in the  average population in Canada and the US.  Each person has a unique level at which this build-up becomes critical and triggers a wide range of health problems.)  Well known effects of chronic organochlorine contamination include hormonal disruption, infertility and lowered sperm counts, immune system suppression, learning disabilities, behavioral changes, and damage to the skin, liver and kidneys. Newborns, infants, children, childbearing women and the elderly are even more vulnerable to these health impacts.
  • Toluene:  affects the central nervous system; symptoms range from slight drowsiness, fatigue and headaches, to irritation of the respiratory tract,  mental confusion and incoordination; higher concentrations can result in unconsciousness and death.  Prolonged contact can cause dermatitis.  Teratogenic, embryotoxic.
  • Benzene:  Highly carcinogenic, linked to all types of leukemia but believed to cause the rarer forms (acute myelogenous leukemis (AML) and acute lymphocytic leukemia (ALL); effects the bone marrow and decrease of red blood cells, leading to anemia, excessive bleeding and/or immune system disfunction. Low levels cause rapid heart rate, dizziness, headaches, tremors, confusion.  Easily absorbed by skin

Better Thinking Ltd., a UK based organization, took a look at the dyes used in the industry and what they do to us and our environment.  They published their findings in a paper called “Dyeing for a Change” which explains the various synthetic dyes available and how they’re used.  (Click here to read about it.)

There are several classes of dyes:

  1. Direct dyes:  given this name because they color the fibers “directly” and eliminates the need for a mordant (the chemical fixing agent lots of dyes need).  Azo dyes are a type of direct dye made from a nitrogen compound; azo dyes are known to give off a range of carcinogenic particles and have been banned in many places, including the EU.  Effluent contains 5 – 20% of original dyestuff, plus salt and dye fixing agents.
  2. Vat dyes:  these dyes need a powerful reducing agent, such as alkali, to make them soluble.  Expensive and complicated to use, effluent contains 5 – 20% of residual dyestuffs, plus reducing agents, oxidizing agents, detergents and salts.
  3. Sulphur dyes:  90% of all sulphur dyes contain sodium sulphide, which endangers life and alters DNA, corrodes sewage systems, damages treatment works and leads to high pH and unpleasant odors.  Effluent contains 30 – 40% of the dyestuff plus alkalis and salt.
  4. Reactive dyes:  these dyes bond directly with the fibers, rather than merely remaining as an independent chemical entity within the fiber.  Applied with relatively cool water (saving energy) and

Of all the classes of synthetic dyes, a subset of  “reactive” dyes (called “low impact fiber reactive”) seems to be the best environmental choice.  As “Dyeing for a Change” explains:

Low-impact reactive dyes are usually defined as “low impact” because of the supposed lower fixation rate – however, these dyes have a fixation rate of at least 70%, which still leaves much room for improvement.  What does make them “low impact” and classified by the EU as eco-friendly:   they have been formulated to contain no heavy metals or other known toxic substances, and do not need mordants. The high cost of this dye becomes an environmental advantage, as it is cheaper to reclaim dye from the effluent rather than discharge it all and start from scratch. The water can also be recycled. The dye cycle is shorter than it is for other dye processes, meaning less water, salt and chemicals are needed. The entire process normally occurs at a pH of around 7.0, meaning no acids or alkalis need to be added to the water.

However, there are still disadvantages: like other environmentally damaging dyes, these dyes are made from synthetic petrochemicals. The process requires very high concentrations of salt (20%-80% of the weight of the goods dyed), alkali and water. Even if the unfixed dye is reclaimed, the effluent from this process can still contain high concentrations of salts, surfactants and defoamers, and is strongly alkaline. It’s also quite expensive, whereas conventional dye is cheap. This process’ effluent normally contains salt, alkali, detergent and between 20% to 50% of dye used. As reactive dyes currently make up 50% of world dye consumption, more knowledge on how to improve upon this method is needed.

Fortunately, research is being undertaken in this area, and a number of companies have produced products that improve on its impacts. It’s been found that, by pre-treating cotton with 120g of phosphate buffer per kg of fabric, no salt or alkali is needed in the dyeing process as the process can occur at a neutral pH. It also means the amount of water required can be halved and the whole dyeing process can be significantly reduced, presenting additional benefits in the form of cost savings. Compared to the other chemicals used to dye fabric the conventional way, this is a relatively low concentration, and its high exhaustion value means the effluent would only contain it in small  proportions, making it a greener alternative.  And British scientists have developed a way to use algae (called diatoms) to color the fabric – eliminating dyes entirely![3]

Tune in next week, when the subject will be “natural” dyes.


[1] “Analysis of the Potential Benefits of Recycled Water Use in Dye Houses”, Water 3 Engineering, Inc., April 2005.[2] Dyeing for a Change, page 4

 

[3] Madrigal, Alexis, “How Pond Scum Could Lead to Eco-Friendly Fabric and Paint”, Wired magazine, 10.11.07

  • share save 120 16 Dyeing cloth is one of our oldest industries;  people used natural products found around them to change the color of the fibers used to make their cloth  – things like leaves, berries, or roots.   The first synthetic dye was created in 1856.

11 Eco Upholstery Textiles Revolutionizing the Global Market : TreeHugger

Posted on: 10 Jun 2009 | Category: Uncategorized |

11 Eco Upholstery Textiles Revolutionizing the Global Market : TreeHugger.

  • share save 120 16 11 Eco Upholstery Textiles Revolutionizing the Global Market : TreeHugger

Write up on Tree Hugger about fabulous fabrics

Posted on: 10 Jun 2009 | Category: Fabrics |

Here is an post that appeared on Tree Hugger 06/10/09  and features our fabrics.

“High-tech” isn’t what you’d normally think of when it comes to fabric, but in recent years, that’s exactly what it has become. Innovation has brought about revolutionary new materials and processes, and one rapidly changing industry. The 11 textiles below are some of the greenest and smartest now available to the residential and contract furnishings market.

Several different criteria go into making what can be called an eco textile, but seven basic questions you should ask are:

1. Is it recyclable?


2. Is it made of recyclable materials?


3. Is it easily biodegradable?


4. Is it produced using green manufacturing processes without harmful chemical byproducts?


5. Does it follow McDonough Braungart Design Chemistry (MBDC)’s Cradle to Cradle principals?


6. Does the finished product off-gas harmful chemicals having a negative effect on indoor air quality? 


7. Does the manufacturer have a company-wide sustainability policy?

1. Hardy Organic Hemp From O Ecotextiles

Seattle-based O Ecotextiles, which was named one of BuildingGreen’s 2008 Top-10 Green Building Products, is one of a select few companies out there completely dedicated to green fabric. Their mission statement sounds like a good plan to us: “O Ecotextiles wants to change the way textiles are made by proving that it’s possible to produce luxurious, sensuous fabrics in ways that are non-toxic, ethical and sustainable.”

Designed by Emily Todhunter, Hardy Organic Hemp is made of 100 percent long fiber hemp, sustainably harvested by independent farmers in Romania–a country that has farmed hemp for generations. Although hemp must be imported (and therefore has a bigger transport carbon footprint), it is particularly easy to grow in most climates and resistant to bugs. No pesticides, insecticides, fungicides, or synthetic fertilizers are used during farming, and the fabric is spun at a local facility without water or “chemicals inputs of any kind.”

The fabric is then moved to an Italian dye house–one of only a few in the world qualified to produce a certified-organic dyed or finished fabric. Hardy Organic Hemp meets three different LEED criteria from the U.S. Green Building Council: indoor air quality, use of rapidly renewable resources, and innovation.

http://tinyurl.com/lvqqbf

  • share save 120 16 Write up on Tree Hugger about fabulous fabrics

Cool shingles are just that, cool!

Posted on: 30 May 2009 | Category: Exteriors |

Keeping a roof over your head has come to mean a lot to most folks these days.  Many of us have decided to invest in the homes we currently own, in stead of moving.  After all ‘ better the devil you know’. You are probably aware of all the squeaky boards and dripping taps in your home and most things can be easily and expensively fixed or updated.

Recently l decided that it was time for new roof shingles. There are plenty of options on the market. l decided to go with GAF Cool Shingles. www.gaf.com. Due to new building regulations, ridge vents were placed in the roof which will allow for improved ventilation in the attic.

The Cool Color Series Shingles reflect sunlight to reduce attic heat build- up, saving energy. In some cases a tax credit will be available for up to $1500.00, per property. All available colors are rated by the Cool Roof Rating Council (CCRC) and are Energy Star qualified. Learn more at www.energystar.com

  • share save 120 16 Cool shingles are just that, cool!

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